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Welcome
to MAC STUDS of Pelham N.H. to our ZW Family! You can tell by the smiles on these folks, that calling
their office to ask about the benefits of quality snowmobile studs will
be a pleasant, even fun experience. There is always a smile in that
office for a snowmobiler. Jim also sells thousands of other fastener
items in his 'real' business. I get the feeling he loves the
stud end of things better - (just my intuition). Jim is a snowmobile
fanatic, and also sponsors the Sled Freak . com site. In fact, I see
his logo in many places. I get the impression that Jim is a big supporter
of many small outfits like me in the snowmobiler family. I hope he
will ride with me this winter up in Quebec!. "I have been in the fastener business for almost 25 years Zen, and the reasons I got into the snowmobile stud manufacturing biz, are... A) I knew I could do as good or better a job in making quality studs for snowmobilers, B) I knew I could make them available for about half the price. (Snowmobiling is already an expensive sport - us riders need all the breaks we can get.) And C) I wanted to offer better customer service than I was getting when I used to buy the competition's studs." Jim. If you call Jim or Allison for more info, please be sure to mention that you heard about him on Zenwaiter.com I want to be sure that we can measure the support that my readers are lending to Mack Studs. Also, I would ask that some of our more outgoing readers, call Jim up today to say thank you for becoming a sponsor! (thanks everyone). We only get one or two new sponsors a year, so we like to make a bit of a fuss over them! Welcome to Zenwaiter.com!! www.mackstud.com
call 1-603-635-3330
About Mack Studs - Testimonials and Reviews "I just picked three of my sleds, I did a lot of research with what stud to use, I ended up going with Mack Studs and don't have one single regret. The picks are awesome, the design and the way they were built, also the backers are great there very thick and wide but still light. The biggest part is that the owners Jim and Carla are just great people to deal with, they are quick to answer questions, you can always reach them if you need something. Jim definitely stands behind his products with a five year bend or break warranty, which is awesome He also sells everything you need to be able to stud your sled, templates, drill bits, tunnel protectors, and even the hardware to remount your tail flap. I had a bag of Woodies gold diggers to compare them to and they made the Woodies look like junk. I will post some pics of all of it. If you thinking about studding your sled check out these studs www.mackstuds.com .
The below is a review by the staff at American Snowmobiler. www.amsnow.com. "For more than 15 years Mack Stud of Pelham NH., has been producing traction products for just about every snowmobile application from racing to leisurely trail riding. Though not as well known as some other traction producers, this last year AmSnow had the opportunity to test two sets of these zinc plated, heat treated, push through, studs. They have a 60o Welded Carbide Tip - similar to other traction products throughout the industry - but the 1/4 inch deep tip is stronger than some products we've seen. We had both the 5/16 x 1.075 inch studs - these give more bite to your 1" lugged track - and the 5/16 x 1.325 inch, which will work on your 1.25 inch lugged track. We have always been fans of square backer plates, which we again used with these two stud packages. There are no double backers here, and we followed Mack's own 96-stud package template. The backers come in 6 different finishes from Mack including red, blue, green, gold, silver and a matte metal finish so they match just about any color machine you own. We didn't have one bent or pulled stud all winter and we were pleased with the minimal wear we saw after several hundred miles. We also we pleased to see that at Mack you can buy complete packages of studs, backers and fasteners for a little less than many competitors. And you don't have to buy each of the components separately, which can take some of the confusion out of ordering online or over the phone, especially for first time buyers.
"Thank you so much for all your help, I love your products . I have got at least 8 of my friends to buy studs from you, cause I kill them off the line and they don't bend or break!" Thanks again! Joe- Hampstead, NH
"Just a quick note to thank you for your professionalism and great customer service. You resolved my dilemma timely and I appreciate your help. Please do not hesitate to use me as a reference for any potential customers. It's rare these days to find such good customer service." Chesire, CT -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- A guide to help you decide which studs are best for you. You've already decided you are ready to experience the benefits a properly studded snowmobile can offer as far as acceleration, braking and turning are concerned, but all the different products and techniques available to you are confusing you as to what exactly you need and what you don't. Not a problem. Keeping a few things in mind you can make an informed decision as to what will be riding underneath you this winter keeping you from hitting trees and getting you out of harms way as well as adding to the enjoyment of your machine without causing you too much grief. Here is what you need to consider when picking out your traction products and installing them: What is your riding style and where are you riding? The same snowmobile lightly ridden by a lightweight rider will normally require up to half as many studs as one ridden all-out by a heavier rider. Only you can determine exactly the type and quantity of studs you will need for your exact application. Manufacturers guides are a great place to get a ballpark figure of what you will need to get started. The goal is to have just enough studs to keep the track from spinning uncontrollably under normal maximum acceleration in your normal areas conditions. Any more and you risk chattering from lack of penetration, any less you risk damage to the studs and track from over stressing the studs and track holes.
Myth: "Running a larger number of studs weakens the track, so running less is better" Fact: Absolutely wrong. If it takes you 192 studs to keep you from spinning uncontrollably in normal conditions, it is far better than over stressing 144 studs and destroying them by accidentally doing a burnout over a gravel bed. The extra weight is a small price you will have to pay for your aggressive riding. Yes, it will cut your top end speed down, but if you are going 105, wouldn't you rather have 192 studs stopping you when the deer jumps out into the trail, or your friend stops in front of you suddenly. I know I do. When you under stud you are over stressing the rubber in the track around the studs. This causes bent backers, cord damage and tear outs. Also, stud head size has a lot less to do with tear-outs than properly tightened nuts and correct length studs do. With that being said, you have a snowmobile with the stock track in good or new condition and you want to select the proper type, size, length, and pattern to install. This is easier than you think. This guide is geared toward trail riding with possibly a little fun lake racing against friends occasionally. If you are setting up for racing you probably know what you need anyway so we will concentrate only with carbide studs. Carbide tipped studs have shafts of super-hard Tungsten Carbide brazed into the alloy steel body of the stud. If the entire stud were made from carbide, it would fracture immediately because it offers very little fracture resistance as a whole. It does offer excellent abrasion resistance when you need to cross a road or travel through gravel. If you are trail riding you want carbide tipped studs. A solid steel, aluminum, or titanium stud will be worthlessly dull after the first ride on anything but ice. The next thing you will want to consider is type. Conventional studs are generally two-piece or push thru. On lower horsepower sleds, you can get away with the older design of the two-piece, stud and t-nut. These are less reliable than the one-piece push through design that has come about and taken over the market of studs. Since push through studs are the most popular, I will concentrate on those primarily. You will typically find two sizes of push through studs, 7mm thread and 5/16" thread (about 8mm). 7mm, the smaller of the two, are used again, on the smaller or lower horsepower sleds. They are lighter but more fragile than the 5/16" thread studs and can't take near the amount of punishment. Normally just the thing for 340, 440 or 500cc sleds lightly ridden with short lug tracks. Anything more and you will probably want the larger shank.
When you have a modern sled with a decent amount of horsepower you will want the 5/16" thread studs. The next thing you will want to decide on is the material. You will find steel and stainless steel studs to choose from. If you absolutely have to have corrosion resistance, go with the stainless steel. A hardened alloy steel stud will be stronger due to the nature of the materials used. One short ride is all that is generally needed to take a set of lightly rusted steel studs and have them looking shiny again. Don't let appearance make your mind up for you. Next you will have to determine what length you will need for your track. This is by far the most confusing part. The big key is knowing exactly what your track lug height is. You are trying to pick studs that extend over the tips of your lugs by 1/4-3/8". Always ask for the exact overall length of the stud you are buying and compare that to the overall thickness of your track. Due to the differences in manufacturers measuring systems, that is the only way you can be sure you are getting the right length. Here is a scenario that may help. Say you have a 1" lug track on your sled. The lug sticks out almost 1" but the overall thickness of the track ends up at about 1-1/8" (which is typical and common). When you ask the seller what size you need you are told 1.075" (which is the recommend SPEC size). You ask yourself, "How am I supposed to have .25-.375 above my lug when my track is 1" lug (1-1/8" overall)?" What you need to confirm is the overall length. The major manufacturers, all measure from the top of a typical backer plate. This is a system which was derived from the two-piece stud and was meant to be less confusing (go figure). Other measuring systems exist, which only add to the confusion. Anyhow, a 1.075 stud is indeed, 1-1/2" in overall length. When you subtract your 1-1/8" overall track thickness you have a difference of 3/8", which is your penetration. Confused yet? Hope not. Basically, always ask the overall length to avoid damage to your sled, a waste of money or return shipping charges. Once you know the size you need and the basic type you want, you can start deciding between the 30-50 product lines available for different types of studs. Don't get exotic here. Carefully compare the top sellers for each manufacturer. Each manufacturer generally has premium studs, value line studs and the rest considered specialty application studs. Here is where you need to consider how long you intend to use them, whether you would replace them if they were to wear out, and if you have a special application that would prevent you from running the most popular studs. If you put on 500 miles a year and plan on having the sled 4 years, a value line stud might be fine for you. If you put on 2000 miles per year and intend on running it into the ground you would want only the highest quality studs because of the time lost every year you might spend replacing inferior products. For free advice over
the phone, please Call us today,
When the trails are slick, Mack Studs will do the trick.
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